SULCATA AND LEOPARD TORTOISE CARE

Theresa Chirico

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BRINGING YOUR NEW TURTLE HOME


If your turtle came from a pet shop, it's likely to be stressed and may have been on a poor diet. Often they are housed with other species that carry diseases/parasites that they have no immunity to. A vet check right a way is a necessity.  A check should include a physical examination, as well as thorough fecal exam.


Sulcatas and Leopards have very similar needs, but their ultimate size and personality differences prohibit them from being good cage mates. If you don't have an acre or two, its not a wise idea to keep both species. This info will save you heartache later of having to part with one or the other.

QUARANTINE:

Always keep new tortoises quarantined from established tortoises you already have


When allowing your new tortoise to adjust to its environment, its best to do as little handling as possible. Later offering hand fed treats will help to build trust.

HYDRATION:


I always leave a shallow dish of water available right in the habitat and if I don't see them drink, often sitting them in their dish is a gentle non stressful reminder.
In captivity we deprive them of their natural ability to have the range of temps as in nature and burrowing as Sulcatas often do. This combined with babies having a smaller body mass, leaves them  more vulnerable to becoming dehydrated. Always leave water available to them and soaking a few times a week is a good idea if you haven't seen them drinking.


My larger Leopard Tortoises appreciate their sunken pond for bathing and soaking, especially during the warmer months.  A shallow pond with sloping sides for easy access and departure is easily constructed using concrete, with wire for reinforcement in a shady area. The depth should be calculated taking the size of your tortoise into account.  Water should be changed daily, more often if soiled by food or feces. A drain valve fitted in the base will facilitate easy water changes.
You can see my wading pond in the foreground HERE

HOUSING:


These rapidly growing species require as much space as you can give them. Hatchlings do well  in a 'tortoise table' kind of set-up. Lots of great photos HERE 

 It helps to plan ahead, and think *expandable* with any housing setup you choose. Fish tanks, (especially the ones with tall sides) are unsuitable because they tend to lack ventilation,  overheat easily and create stress.. Ideally, housing should be outside, grazing on grasses, weeds, enjoying fresh air  and soaking up unfiltered sunlight  gives them the Vitamin D3 they need to stay healthy.

SUBSTRATE:


I use a few inches of Bermuda Hay piled up with newspaper under it. Cleaning is easily done by rolling up the paper. Bermuda Hay is edible, and provides good footage for accidental flip-overs. It is also affordable,  and fun for them to burrow under :)  Alfalfa hay tends to be dusty with hard stems and is far too  high in protein. Other excellent  hays are Orchard and Oat,  and can be purchased online HERE. 


Other good substrates are organic top soil, 50/50 play sand & organic potting soil (no little white pieces (perlite) or fertilizers.)   Even good clean earth from your yard, if untreated is fine.  Dusty hays and mold from alfalfa pellets have been implicated in respiratory problems. 

TEMPERATURES IN THEIR HOUSING:


Tortoises require a range of temperatures to be provided for proper thermoregulation.  75F on the cool side with a bright basking area in the low 90'sF  is about as close to ideal as you can probably get.  Be certain to verify the temperatures with thermometers on both sides at tortoise level. 

As in nature, tortoises require an overnight drop in temps to maintain a healthy immune system. I don't let mine get cooler then 65F. Sick or newly acquired animals may be best kept in the 80's overnight to aid in their immune response and combat the stress of adjusting to a new home. Heating pads and hot rocks are dangerous and should never be relied on as a heat source.  In nature, overhead heat is absorbed more effectively. Overheating is a danger especially. in smaller quarters, when they need the ability to move about to manage their body temperature.

LOCATING A REPTILE VET:

Vets For Herps


PARASITES:


Loose, smelly, or mucous laden stools, sluggish behaviour and a poor appetite are often indicators of a parasitic infection. A trip to the vet is a necessity!

URATES:

White Droppings

HEALTH CHART:


It's a good Idea to get a health chart started on all new tortoises. Regularly keeping notes about, length, weight, eating habits etc are very important.

 Be sure to note your veterinarian's name and phone number, as well as who is to care for this animal, something should ever happen to you.

HIBERNATION:


Sulcata and Leopard Tortoises DO NOT hibernate in the wild. Using common names often causes confusion. The common name Spur-Thigh is used for the Testudo species, a smaller species that does hibernate. Pictures and care information for both species

LEOPARD TORTOISE CARE SHEET:


If your tortoise is not getting regular unfiltered sunlight, use a light dusting of a Phosphorus free Calcium supplement.. These animals can't manufacture D3 without sunlight, supplementation and quality UVB/UVA lighting. Active UV Heat Bulbs & Reptisun 8.0 are two of the best.


Vitamin supplementation is best given examining the variety and how close to a nature diet your providing.

Understanding Reptile Lighting Systems
Example of how a lumpy tortoise can 'smooth out' as it gets bigger with proper care and diet:


 ARTICLES ON REPTILE LIGHTING:


UVB-Basics 


FEEDING:


In the wild, these herbivores species primarily on grass. In captivity the ideal situation for these animals to sustain themselves, is to just allow them to graze in a well planted chemically untreated area of your yard. Fruit isn't something that is really native to these animals and can create all kinds of gastric disturbances. Best to avoid. The only fruit they get in the wild is the fruit of the opuntia (only in parts of their range and seasonally).


Because providing a grazing area isn't always possible, its easy to rely on wet produce greens, intestinal problems and loose stools are often encountered. Using hay in the diet is much healthier.  Ingestion of the chemicals commonly sprayed on produce is a health concern. Choose organic greens when possible ,or be sure to wash in mild soapy water and rinse well. Remove plastic and metal wrappers so your tortoises don't accidentally ingest them.

Nutritious chemical free healthy foods are often freely available in your yard or vacant lots 
Grasses, Clovers, Grape, Mulberry & Fig leaves, Dandelion, Plantain (the weed) , Hibiscus (leaves and flowers), Opuntia, Sowhistle, and Chickweed are just a few. 


Aim for a high Calcium to low Phosphorus ratio and low protein diet. 

When fed in excess, foods high in oxalic acid have been implicated in binding minerals including calcium.
Moderation and variety is the key.

- Regularly:  Grazing Mix, Orchard and/or Bermuda Grass Hay, Dandelion, Chicory, Opuntia (smooth or de-spined), and different edible wildflowers and weeds.

-Rarely or Never: swiss chard, broccoli, bok choy, iceberg lettuce, sweet potatoes, sprouts of any kind, corn, cucumbers, beet greens, fruit in general, spinach,  rhubarb, beans of any kind, dog food, pasta, cabbage, brussels sprouts or alfalfa.

For more information on why foods above are listed as they are, please visit the links below:

http://home.earthlink.net/~rednine/nutrient.htm
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/dietcons.html


GETTING THEM TO EAT HEALTHIER FOODS:


Mixing larger portions of things your tort likes in chopped "salads" and slowly cut back on "treat" foods in this mix, is one way to get them adjusted to a better diet. If you tort is healthy and has water available at all times, it wont hurt them to go a couple days without food, letting them get hungry enough to appreciate a healthier diet is OK.