Russian Tortoise Care (AKA Testudo horsfieldii, Agrionemys horsfieldii, Horsfield's or Steppe Tortoise)

Theresa Chirico

Copyright Turtle Cafe, TurtleCafe.Com  1999-2007 All Rights Reserved   

BRINGING YOUR NEW TURTLE HOME:


Be strict with your quarantine- If this is a wild caught animal (nearly all Russians are if you didn't buy from a breeder and pay over $150.00. ) Russian tortoises have had extensive exposure to numerous pathogens, bad holding facilities, and more often than not, bad or no food before getting to you.

Tortoises from different countries often have different personalities,  dietary and housing requirements. They carry many diseases and parasites that other tortoise species have no immunity to. This can lead to a lethal situation for both animals:( For these reasons, it is strongly advised to *never* mix species.

If you have purchased a wild caught tortoise, it will need to be seen by a veterinarian for an examination and begin de-worming program immediately. 

To better understand what Russian (and other wild caught tortoise species)  have been though to get to the pet trade, I offer these links.

Warning, they are graphic but will help you to better understand the stress they encounter, and he need for a veterinary exam:
Russians (graphic!):
http://members.tripod.com/noimports/id3.htm
http://members.tripod.com/noimports/id21.htm

ADJUSTING TO YOUR TURTLE AND YOUR TURTLE TO YOU:


When allowing your new tortoise to adjust to its environment, its best to do as little handling as possible. Later offering hand fed treats will help to build trust.

HYDRATION:


I leave  a shallow dish of fresh water readily available. If your tort isn't drinking by itself, make a point of setting him in the water once per day, but allow it to leave the water if it wishes to.  A smaller tortoise with less body mass is naturally more vulnerable to becoming dehydrated.

HOUSING:


Glass tanks are completely unsuitable for these and other tortoise species.
I recommend an outdoor habitat. There are some great indoor and out door setups HERE .

SUBSTRATE:

I use a few inches of Bermuda Hay piled up with newspaper under it. Cleaning is easily done by rolling up the paper. Bermuda Hay is edible, and provides good footage for accidental flip-overs. It is also affordable,  and fun for them to burrow under :)  Alfalfa hay tends to be dusty with hard stems and is far too  high in protein. Other excellent  hays are Orchard and Oat,  and can be purchased online HERE.   Other good substrates are organic top soil, 50/50 play sand & organic potting soil (no little white pieces (perlite) or fertilizers.)   Even good clean earth from your yard, if untreated is fine.  Dusty hays and mold from alfalfa pellets have been implicated in respiratory problems. 

 

TEMPERATURES IN THEIR HOUSING:


Tortoises require a range of temperatures to be provided for proper thermoregulation.  75F on the cool side with a bright basking area in the low 90'sF  is about as close to ideal as you can probably get.  Be certain to verify the temperatures with thermometers on both sides at tortoise level. 

As in nature, tortoises require an overnight drop in temps to maintain a healthy immune system. I don't let mine get cooler then 65F. Sick or newly acquired animals may be best kept in the 80's overnight to aid in their immune response and combat the stress of adjusting to a new home. Heating pads and hot rocks are dangerous and should never be relied on as a heat source.  In nature, overhead heat is absorbed more effectively. Overheating is a danger especially. in smaller quarters, when they need the ability to move about to manage their body temperature.

LOCATING A REPTILE VET:

Vets For Herps


PARASITES:


Loose, smelly, or mucous laden stools, sluggish behaviour and a poor appetite are often indicators of a parasitic infection. A trip to the vet is a necessity!

URATES:

HEALTH CHART:


It's a good Idea to get a health chart started on all new tortoises. Regularly keeping notes about, length, weight, eating habits etc are very important.
  Be sure to note your veterinarian's name and phone number, as well as who is to care for this animal, something should ever happen to you.

HIBERNATION:


Russians hibernate and aestivate in the wild. If you chose to do this, some further reading is a necessity:


http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/hints.html
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/safer.html


SEXING RUSSIANS:

http://www.tortoise.org/gallery/picruss.html#2

RUSSIAN INCUBATION:


http://www.tortoise.org/archives/russ.html
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/horsfield2.html

MORE RUSSIAN TORTOISE INFORMATION

http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/horsfield.html
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/horsfield_habitat.html



SUPPLEMENTS:

If your tortoise is not getting regular unfiltered sunlight, use a light dusting of a Phosphorus free Calcium supplement.. These animals can't manufacture D3 without sunlight, supplementation and quality UVB/UVA lighting. Active UV Heat Bulbs & Reptisun 8.0 are two of the best.


Vitamin supplementation is best given examining the variety and how close to a nature diet your providing.

Understanding Reptile Lighting Systems

Example of how a lumpy tortoise can 'smooth out' as it gets bigger with proper care and diet:


ARTICLES ON REPTILE LIGHTING:


UVB-Basics 


FEEDING:


In the wild, these herbivores species are a browser and graze mostly on weeds, forbs, and young shoots of grass.

In captivity the ideal situation for these animals is for them to sustain themselves.  Allow them to graze in a well planted, organic area of your yard.
Fruit is not a native food item to these animals. Feeding them can create serious gastric disturbances.

Because providing a grazing area isn't always possible, its easy to rely on wet produce greens, intestinal problems and loose stools are often encountered. Using hay in the diet is much healthier.  Ingestion of the chemicals commonly sprayed on produce is a health concern. Choose organic greens when possible ,or be sure to wash in mild soapy water and rinse well. Remove plastic and metal wrappers so your tortoises don't accidentally ingest them.

Nutritious chemical free healthy foods are often freely available in your yard or vacant lots 

Grasses, Clovers, Grape, Mulberry & Fig leaves, Dandelion, Plantain (the weed) , Hibiscus (leaves and flowers), Opuntia, Sowhistle, and Chickweed are just a few. 

MAKING HEALTHY CHOICES


Aim for a high Calcium to low Phosphorus ratio and low protein diet. 

When fed in excess, foods high in oxalic acid have been implicated in binding minerals including calcium.
Moderation and variety is the key.

- Regularly:  Grazing Mix, Orchard and/or Bermuda Grass Hay, Dandelion, Chicory, Opuntia (smooth or de-spined), and different edible wildflowers and weeds.

-Rarely or Never: swiss chard, broccoli, bok choy, iceberg lettuce, sweet potatoes, sprouts of any kind, corn, cucumbers, beet greens, fruit in general, spinach,  rhubarb, beans of any kind, dog food, pasta, cabbage, brussels sprouts or alfalfa.

For more information on why foods above are listed as they are, please visit the links below:

www.turtlecafe.com/vegstats.htm
http://home.earthlink.net/~rednine/nutrient.htm
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/dietcons.html


GETTING THEM TO EAT HEALTHIER FOODS:


Mixing larger portions of things your tort likes in chopped "salads" and slowly cut back on "treat" foods in this mix, is one way to get them adjusted to a better diet. If you tort is healthy and has water available at all times, it wont hurt them to go a couple days without food, letting them get hungry enough to appreciate a healthier diet is OK.


       <~~~>x<¤>x<~~~>x<¤>x<~~~>x<¤>x<~~~>
           
http://TurtleCafe.Com