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BRINGING
YOUR NEW TURTLE HOME:
Be strict with your quarantine- If this is a wild caught animal (nearly
all Russians are if you didn't buy from a breeder and pay over $150.00.
) Russian tortoises have had extensive exposure to numerous pathogens,
bad holding facilities, and more often than not, bad or no food before
getting to you.
Tortoises
from different countries often have different personalities,
dietary and housing requirements. They carry many diseases and parasites
that other tortoise species have no immunity to. This can lead to a
lethal situation for both animals:( For these reasons, it is strongly
advised to *never* mix species.
If you have purchased a wild caught tortoise, it will need to be seen by
a veterinarian for an examination and begin de-worming program
immediately.
To
better understand what Russian (and other wild caught tortoise species)
have been though to get to the pet trade, I offer these links.
Warning,
they are graphic but will help you to better understand the stress they
encounter, and he need for a veterinary exam:
Russians (graphic!):
http://members.tripod.com/noimports/id3.htm
http://members.tripod.com/noimports/id21.htm
ADJUSTING
TO YOUR TURTLE AND YOUR TURTLE TO YOU:
When allowing your new tortoise to adjust to its environment, its best
to do as little handling as possible. Later offering hand fed treats
will help to build trust.
HYDRATION:
I leave a shallow dish of fresh water readily available. If your
tort isn't drinking by itself, make a point of setting him in the water
once per day, but allow it to leave the water if it wishes to. A
smaller tortoise with less body mass is naturally more vulnerable to
becoming dehydrated.
HOUSING:
Glass tanks are completely unsuitable for these and other tortoise
species. I
recommend an outdoor habitat. There are some great indoor and out door
setups HERE
.
SUBSTRATE:
I use
a few inches of Bermuda
Hay piled up with newspaper under it. Cleaning is easily done by
rolling up the paper. Bermuda Hay is edible, and provides good footage
for accidental flip-overs. It is also affordable, and fun for
them to burrow under :) Alfalfa hay tends to be dusty with hard
stems and is far too high in protein. Other excellent hays
are Orchard
and Oat, and can be purchased online HERE.
Other good substrates are organic top soil, 50/50 play sand &
organic potting soil (no little white pieces (perlite) or
fertilizers.) Even good clean earth from your yard, if
untreated is fine. Dusty hays and mold from alfalfa pellets have
been implicated in respiratory problems.
TEMPERATURES
IN THEIR HOUSING:
Tortoises require a range of temperatures to be provided for proper
thermoregulation. 75F on the cool side with a bright basking
area in the low 90'sF is about as close to ideal as you can
probably get. Be certain to verify the temperatures with
thermometers on both sides at tortoise level.
As in
nature, tortoises require an overnight drop in temps to maintain a
healthy immune system. I don't let mine get cooler then 65F. Sick or
newly acquired animals may be best kept in the 80's overnight to aid
in their immune response and combat the stress of adjusting to a new
home. Heating pads and hot rocks are dangerous and should never be
relied on as a heat source. In nature, overhead heat is absorbed
more effectively. Overheating is a danger especially. in smaller
quarters, when they need the ability to move about to manage their
body temperature.
Loose, smelly, or mucous laden stools, sluggish
behaviour and a poor appetite are often indicators of a parasitic
infection. A trip to the vet is a necessity!
It's a good Idea to get a health chart started on all new tortoises.
Regularly keeping notes about, length, weight, eating habits etc are
very important. Be
sure to note your veterinarian's name and phone number, as well as who
is to care for this animal, something should ever happen to you.
HIBERNATION:
Russians hibernate and aestivate in the wild. If you chose to do this,
some further reading is a necessity:
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/hints.html
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/safer.html
SEXING
RUSSIANS:
http://www.tortoise.org/gallery/picruss.html#2
RUSSIAN
INCUBATION:
http://www.tortoise.org/archives/russ.html
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/horsfield2.html
MORE
RUSSIAN TORTOISE INFORMATION
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/horsfield.html
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/horsfield_habitat.html
SUPPLEMENTS:
If
your tortoise is not getting regular unfiltered sunlight, use a light
dusting of a Phosphorus free Calcium supplement.. These animals can't
manufacture D3 without sunlight, supplementation and quality UVB/UVA
lighting. Active UV Heat Bulbs & Reptisun 8.0 are two of the best.
In the wild, these herbivores species are a browser and graze mostly on
weeds, forbs, and young shoots of grass.
In
captivity the ideal situation for these animals is for them to sustain
themselves. Allow them to graze in a well planted, organic area of
your yard.
Fruit is not a native food item to these animals. Feeding them
can create serious gastric disturbances.
Because
providing a grazing area isn't always possible, its easy to rely on
wet produce greens, intestinal problems and loose stools are often
encountered. Using hay
in the diet is much healthier. Ingestion of the chemicals
commonly sprayed on produce is a health concern. Choose organic greens
when possible ,or be sure to wash in mild soapy water and rinse well.
Remove plastic and metal wrappers so your tortoises don't accidentally
ingest them.
Nutritious chemical free healthy foods are often freely available in
your yard or vacant lots
Grasses,
Clovers, Grape, Mulberry & Fig leaves, Dandelion,
Plantain (the
weed) , Hibiscus (leaves and flowers), Opuntia, Sowhistle,
and Chickweed
are just a few.
Aim for a high Calcium to low Phosphorus ratio and low protein diet.
When
fed in excess, foods high in oxalic
acid have been implicated in binding minerals including calcium.
Moderation and variety is the key.
- Regularly: Grazing
Mix, Orchard
and/or Bermuda Grass Hay, Dandelion,
Chicory,
Opuntia (smooth or de-spined), and different edible
wildflowers and weeds.
-Rarely or Never: swiss chard, broccoli, bok choy, iceberg lettuce,
sweet potatoes, sprouts of any kind, corn, cucumbers, beet greens,
fruit in general, spinach, rhubarb, beans of any kind, dog food,
pasta, cabbage, brussels sprouts or alfalfa.
For more information on why foods above are listed as they are, please
visit the links below:
www.turtlecafe.com/vegstats.htm
http://home.earthlink.net/~rednine/nutrient.htm
http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/dietcons.html
GETTING
THEM TO EAT HEALTHIER FOODS:
Mixing larger portions of things your tort likes in chopped
"salads" and slowly cut back on "treat" foods in
this mix, is one way to get them adjusted to a better diet. If you
tort is healthy and has water available at all times, it wont hurt
them to go a couple days without food, letting them get hungry enough
to appreciate a healthier diet is OK.
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